Top stitching simulates the strips of leather used to make the vest/doublet. It is the top stitching that gives the costume it's authentic look...unless of course you're making it out of leather.
Having shown the caplet top stitching in the last post, let's turn to the piece below the main body of the vest aka peplum. Two, long, slightly curved pieces are sewn at the center back and lined with the same fabric to make the peplum. I used the original pattern but shortened the vertical length. Note: Do not cut out this piece until after you've lengthen the top of the vest. (See previous post on Sept 19th showing the pattern pieces.) Turn it inside out, pin to keep the seam flat. Close examination of the Tangled pictures shows the top front edge goes from narrow to wide and then again narrows and widens as the stitching goes to the center back. This is repeated on the other side so the widest margin of top stitching is at the center back. See close-up of photo to the left for the front edge of the peplum.
Next there are rows running vertically down the peplum. To add a bit of a flared look I made the top of the rows about 1.5 inches apart and the bottoms are 1.75 apart. Start at the center back and mark the lines working forward, adjust the angles if they seem to be too slanted. Most of the peplum will be covered by belts and bags.
Caplet Issues: (Sew shoulder seams prior to this.)
The photo to the right shows the caplet set in the sleeve hole. There was nothing special about this other than making sure you like the depth at the top of the sleeve cap. Personally, I think this is one of the times you need to make sure you like the look of the vest on the wearer. Use the Flynn Rider pictures to judge for yourself how far out the caplet edge should be.
Once the caplet was in I could figure out how far apart the studs will be, about 3", but with some minor adjustments to match placement on the original costume.