Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Flynn Rider's vest/doublet

A quick note, teal leather maybe available but I wasn't going to work with it, especially since not even the Flynn's at Disneyland Resorts have leather vests.

The vest is probably the most iconic part of Flynn's costume.  To the right you'll see the top overlay for the vest and the muslin piece that has top stitching pattern lines on it. You'll need to click on photo to see the details better. The pattern for the stitching was transferred using tracing paper and a rolling tracing tool but I didn't want to use a high contrast color so I went over the lines with a seamstress' disappearing ink pen. The lines are across the vest and along the edge, additionally, the sewing line was also draw on the flannel.

The process is 1) draw top stitching lines on the right side of the overlay, 2) draw stitching line on the "wrong" side of the flannel, 3) baste flannel to overlay at two edges, your choice, 4) draw stitching line on the front of the vest.
Shows how the stitching line matches up
 Next, place the overlay on the vest front matching the stitching lines. The overlay will lay down the front and be flipped up toward the shoulder.
Pinned overlay
Pin and sew. Pull overlay up and pin at shoulder seams. I did not press the front because I wanted the rounded look at the lower edge but this would be the point at which you could. 
After you match the shoulder pin. Top stitch the diagonal edge at the bottom of the overlay then work you way up. Start at the armhole edge and work to the center front. At the beginning leave a long thread to pull through and tie off or stitch a couple of stitches at "0". This will secure the stitching. 

The sample to the left shows the look of the different the stitch lengths. (Note 4 is a gathering stitch on my machine, 2 is the normal setting.)   I chose 3.      

The finished look is to the right. You'll notice the overlay does not extend to the front edge, this is okay, it will be part of a turned under edge where I did not want the extra fabric. Look closely and you'll see the bottom line narrows as it goes toward the center.

Need more information? A better explanation? Just let me know with a comment and I'll do my best to clarify.

No comments:

Post a Comment